I absolutely love Franciacorta. I had the chance to try some fine examples at a tasting & the complexity of it just took me away. When I learned that Curtefranca was a DOC that made still wines in a similar manner, close to the terroir of Franciacorta & with the same grapes I had to know what that tasted like. Unfortunately this denomination isn’t really popular around here so there wasn’t any until recently when a new bottle hit the shelves! This is my review of it & I hope that other offerings will be available soon. This is the 2017 vintage, but as of 2018 the winery is certified organic.
Curtefranca Bianco 2017
Produced & bottled by: Az. Agr. Gualberto Ricci Curbastro & Figli
Type: Dry White from Northern Italy
Region: DOC Curtefranca, Lombardia, Italy
Aging: 4 months, probably in stainless steel tanks
ABV: 12%
Grapes: 60% Chardonnay, 40% Pinot Bianco
Appearance: 8/10
The label is very simplistic with few information written on the back, which don’t really help in describing the wine. The bottle has a cork & is tinted, two beneficial traits to prevent oxidation & light-struck, as I mentioned in many posts already. The wine is a clear pale yellow colour with green hues, a sign often linked to high acidity. When I swirl my glass, the liquid creates a medium diffuse crest from where sparse large drops form & glide slowly back.
Nose: 10/15
The nose recalls fruity aromas of apples, quince & Bosc pears, however, a mineral quality similar to honey & wet gravel or stone is also present. I sense a weird savoury note which reminds me strongly of some sakes traits. The orchard fruits bring a nice bouquet to the nose but the umami overwhelms pretty much everything else. As I was smelling longer & longer in order to finally find out what was that peculiar aroma, I managed to detect some tropical notes as well as cotton candy. I wasn’t really impressed with what the nose had to offer. It seemed to be a cheap & pale version of Franciacorta’s profile, although I know that’s not always the case.
Mouth: 9/15
The same sake flavour is also present on the palate & delivers a strong umami taste. A fresh acidity & a timid alcohol lighten the mood, allowing for a more refreshing character. Then an oily texture & a medium body complete the picture. The quince, pears & apples are still there but this time the tropical flavours are more powerful, bringing some ripe pineapple to the party. It contributes to the savoury profile which only gets worse as the wine warms up. The cotton candy evolved into bubblegum & the minerals developed earthier notes. However, both tend to stay in the background, leaving space to the fruitiness. I detect some creamy yeast, kind of like Greek yogurt as I pursue my analysis. The palate wasn’t better nor worse than the nose. It has its qualities & to a certain degree it can be pleasant, but the sake flavour keeps me from really enjoying this wine.
Finish: 6/10
The finish is incredibly long with ripe tropical fruits, sourdough & that same never-ending savoury note. Minutes after a sip I still have this umami taste spread across my mouth.
Overall: 66/100
I kind of had high hopes for this wine, given my love for Franciacorta. Unfortunately, the sake aroma & taste didn’t make it for me. Don’t get me wrong I enjoy sake, I just feel like it was out of place in this particular bottle. If it had been mild, it could have brought up some depth, but it was so strong I couldn’t find any pleasure in drinking the wine. On the other hand, there was some complexity & a nice balance on the palate between the usual components of white wine: acidity, sweetness & body. I’m still eager to explore further this less known denomination so I guess it’s not a total loss.
3-word Description:
Savoury, fruity & yeasty.
The Reference
More information @riccicurbastro.it
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