Aglianico is often called the Barolo of the South. This intrigued me as I like Nebbiolo in general. I stumbled upon this bottle that seemed promising. I didn’t find any of the characteristics of Barolo wines although I discovered a fantastic grape. I will keep looking for more coming out of Grifalco & the Piccin brothers.
“...a layered complexity of earthiness, floral notes & black pepper.”
Gricos 2017
Produced & bottled by: Grifalco
Type: Dry Red from Southern Italy
Region: DOC Aglianico Del Vulture, Basilicata, Italy
Aging: 2nd-passage American Oak first, then 6 to 12 months in 2nd-passage French Oak
ABV: 13%
Grapes: 100% Aglianico
Appearance: 8/10
The wine comes in a classic Bordeaux-style bottle with a cork top. The label is very simple with the bare minimum of information. In the glass, this Aglianico is opaque with a deep purple colour & ruby hues. When I swirl the wine, it leaves a large crest from where few medium legs fall slowly back. The colour is much deeper than what I would normally find with Nebbiolo.
Nose: 12/15
The first impression is of rich black fruits. Think black cherries, blackberries, haskap & blueberries. Then comes a layer of dried floral notes with some potpourri & wilted roses. The backbone of the wine is inky with wet earth, pungent black pepper a delicate smoky whisper. It reminds me more of a Côtes du Rhône instead of a Barolo, but less meaty & herbal. It is a little quiet on the nose, so I had to let it breathe awhile.
Mouth: 12/15
The mouthfeel starts off strong with high acidity & powdery, grippy tannins. The body of the wine is quite full on the palate & there’s barely any perceptible residual sugar. Once more, there’s a plethora of black fruits this time with black plums, raisins, Kalamata olives as well as the same blueberries, blackberries & haskap as found on the nose. The floral aspect is more complex on the palate with lavender & violets joining the potpourri. Other than that there’s a deepness to the wine that is translated with earthy, dried leaves, black pepper & cured meat. The barrel shows itself through coffee, vanilla, cigars & leather. A minerality that I understand to be typical of the volcanic soil of the region is noticeable & provides a faint wet stone flavour. Still far from the Barolos I’ve had with riper fruits & rich floral notes.
Finish: 8/10
The medium is slightly too short leaving behind notes of wet leaves, blueberries, leather, tobacco & raisins. The tannins remain with you until the very end.
Overall: 80/100
This was a first with Aglianico del Vulture & I appreciated the experiment. I won’t compare this grape to Barolo any time soon, since I don’t think they are the same at all from this experience. This offering from the Piccin brothers shows dark-coloured fruits with a layered complexity of earthiness, floral notes & black pepper. Concerning the mouthfeel it is bold with high acidity & has pleasantly challenging tannins. I strongly suggest letting it breathe in a decanter for an hour or so. This will allow the wine to develop more pronounced aromas & flavours otherwise a little too subtle.
3-word Description:
Blackberries, Floral & Earthy.
The Reference
More information @grifalcovini.com
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