I instantly fell in love with Nebbiolo the first time I had the opportunity to taste it. It was the classic Fontanafredda Barolo 2015, a perfect introduction for beginners. Since then, I’ve had different Nebbiolo from various growing region in Italy, although I have yet to try one from another country. It’s commonly said about Nebbiolo wines that they are delicate & fresh, like Pinot Noir in appearance, but deliver a solid punch when you drink them. This is due to the powerful tannins & acidity that comes from this peculiar grape. In your journey through the wine world, you may stumble across some common synonyms. The most popular ones are Spanna (Northern Piemonte, especially Gattinara), Picotener/Picotendre/Picotendro (Valle d’Aosta) & Chiavennasca (Lombardia). In other countries it is mostly referred to as Nebbiolo.
History
The name most probably comes from the Italian word “nebbia”, meaning clouds or fog. It would be in reference to the cloudiness of Piemonte’s hills & to the powdery pellicle that covers the grape in the harvesting period. Some DNA studies show that it would be a close parent to Freisa which itself would be related to Viognier. Otherwise, ampelographers suggest that Nebbiolo is indigenous to Italy, either coming from Piemonte or Lombardia. The first possible recording of the great potential of the grape was from Pliny the Elder, describing some exceptional wine from Pollenzo a commune close to Barolo DOCG. However, even if many clues point toward Nebbiolo, no specific variety was mentioned. Barbaresco & Barolo, the two most notable regions of Piemonte making Nebbiolo were part of the first three to be upgraded to DOCG in 1980 with Brunello di Montalcino. At about the same time, some producers in Barolo started making more modern expression of the grape showcasing some fruitier & richer aromas. Although this way of working the wine is not always unanimous, it surely allowed to evaluate the full range, between the fine & elegant, traditional Barolo and the younger & fruitier, more modern Barolo.
Regions
The home of Nebbiolo is in Piemonte, but recently some bottles have gained in popularity in other parts of the world, notably Mexico, Australia & the United States. Totaling about 6,000 hectares or 14,000 acres worldwide, more than 95% of all Nebbiolo vines are planted on Italian soil.
The most prestigious regions in Italy where Nebbiolo is a dominant grape are Barolo, Barbaresco, Gattinara, Ghemme, Roero & Valtellina Superiore (all DOCG). Then there are some DOCs where are often found wonderful surprises such as Alba, Carema, Langhe, Lessona, Sizzano & Rosso di Valtellina. In Lombardia there is a DOCG named Sfursat di Valtellina or Sforzato di Valtellina where the Nebbiolo grapes are dried & fermented to its full extent leaving a concentrated, dry wine similar to what is made with Amarone.
Mexico holds a big share when it comes to Nebbiolo outside of Italy. The most promising region is Valle de Guadalupe, where plenty of Nebbiolo-based blends are found. Although rarer, 100% Nebbiolo wines do exist, allowing to really experience how this grape thrives in a much hotter & drier climate than Piemonte. In Australia, there have been Nebbiolo vineyards for decades, but it only started to attract attention, especially in Victoria where the cool weather offers expressions rivaling what is made in Italy. In California, many Italian cultivars have been planted in the 1800s. Nebbiolo, however, has never been one of the popular varieties, until recently, when winemakers tried to upgrade their growing techniques regarding this finicky grape, leading to an increase in quality & in demand.
Growing
Nebbiolo is notoriously hard to grow outside its native region. The vines are really sensitive to the soil composition as well as the climate in which they’re planted. In addition, the fruit is also early flowering & late-ripening, meaning that it’s prone to spring frost & to immaturity if conditions of ripening aren’t met. Nebbiolo needs an incredible amount of sun in order to give proper grapes. On top of that, the vines are pretty vigorous & tend to favour forming leaves rather than fruits. On the bright side, even though its skin is fairly thin, it has a great resistance to mold & pests. Just like with the aroma profile, the growing part is also quite reminiscent of Pinot Noir.
Climate, Vintages & Wine-Making
Regarding climate, Nebbiolo tends to age better in cold, dry weather & in ideal conditions for late harvesting. Warmer temperature contributes to making fruitier & fleshier wines, an appealing trait for younger bottles. The crucial moment of the year is the months of October & September, the rainiest of the year, often detrimental to the grapes, causing underripe tannins & diluted flavours.
In terms of aromas, cooler climates & years will deliver sour cranberries, rose hips, leather, red clay & herbaceous notes with a powerful acidity & a mouth-drying astringency. This profile of wine is also more common among traditional winemakers & are often sought after by purists. On the other hand, warm weather & a more modern approach offers sour cherries, dried cranberries, earthiness & strawberry syrup with mellow, well-integrated tannins & a great structure. New French oak is widely used to soften down the tannins quicker, lending some baking spices & vanilla notes at the same time. Whatever the conditions are, it is important to know that most producers use techniques that fall somewhere in-between traditional & modern winemaking.
When Nebbiolo is not the only grape in the bottle, the profile may vary a lot depending on blend. This type of winemaking is a practice often seen in DOCs of Piemonte like Carema, Sizzano or Lessona, but can also be found in Ghemme & Gattinara, both DOCGs. Outside Piemonte & Lombardia, Nebbiolo is almost always blended with other grapes in order to compensate for its powerful tannins & acidity.
In order to make 100% Nebbiolo, some producers of Barolo & Barbaresco might opt for a combination of Nebbiolo clones. The most common ones are Lampia, which some consider the “real” Nebbiolo, genetically speaking. It’s the most popular & efficient one, giving constant results. Then there is Michet, delivering more quality & concentrated wines. Michet is, simply put, Lampia infected with Fanleaf virus. The last common clone, although much rarer than the first two, is Rosé Nebbiolo. It produces very pale & highly perfumed grapes. All these are considered sub-varieties of Nebbiolo, thus allowing winemakers to use them in making 100% Nebbiolo wines.
Wine Profile
Colour
Nebbiolo’s robe is famous in the wine world. It possesses a light ruby, garnet colour in its youth but quickly fades into a copper to orange hue.
Nose
The traditional Nebbiolo evokes notes of roses, tar, leather, sour red cherries, fresh herbs, cranberries & clay pots. Some more modern expressions feature mulberries, plums, violets, vanilla, licorice & baking spices. The older ones may deliver additional aromas of dried roses, tea leaves, tobacco, sandalwood or even truffles.
Taste
Nebbiolo might be mistaken for a light wine when only smelling it, due to its fresh & delicate nose. However, a remarkable experience is awaiting anybody who goes ahead & take a sip. A vivid acidity, some mouth-drying tannins & a generous warmth from the alcohol is fairly common. All of this combined with a low amount of residual sugars creates a medium to high body & a powerful structure. The acidity & the tannins can sometimes be so intense that even decades later it can still be dominant in the wine’s profile.
Aging/Cellaring
Nebbiolo certainly has the attributes to be cellared for a few years or decades. Traditional vinification leans more toward aging potential while more modern approaches allow Nebbiolo to be savoured in a shorter amount of time.
Serving
Temperature
They should be served between 55 and 60 °F depending on the region, the producer & the vintage. The fruitier wines should be consumed a little on the warmer side in order to deliver all the nuances. Young Nebbiolos, which have often are astringent should also be more toward 60 °F since cooler temperature makes the tannins seem harsher. However, as always, it is easier to warm a glass than to cool it.
Breathing/Decanting
If possible, try to let it breathe for an hour or more, but be careful if you have an old vintage, because doing so might kill it. If that’s the case, you might want to only decant it before serving. Allowing oxygen to come in contact with the youngest bottles for a while will mostly be beneficial for Nebbiolo as they tend to need a lot of maturation to achieve elegance & pureness, otherwise obtained by aging.
Glassware
A perfect vessel for this kind of wine would be something similar to a Burgundy or Pinot Noir glass. Aim for a wide bowl & a large capacity as well as a narrower than usual lip in order to collect all the delicate aromas.
Common Examples
Barolo: Barolo Serralunga d'Alba - Fontanafredda; Barolo - Batasiolo
Barbaresco: Barbaresco - Batasiolo; Barbaresco - Cantina del Pino
Langhe: Nebbiolo Langhe - Produttori del Barbaresco; Langhe Nebbiolo - Paolo Scavino
Gattinara: Gattinara Tre Vigne - Travaglini
Roero: Roero - Matteo Correggia
Valtellina: Rosso di Valtellina - ARPEPE; Sfursat di Valtellina - Aldo Rainoldi
California: Nebbiolo - Palmina; Bollo - Lone Madrone
Mexico: Reserva Privada Nebbiolo - L.A. Cetto; Nebbiolo - Casa Magoni
Australia: Nebbiolo - Pizzini; Crudo Nebbiolo - Luke Lambert
Pairings
Vegetables
To stand up to a Nebbiolo, root vegetables or mushrooms must be part of the dish. The savoury, earthy & rich profile of these ingredients will soften the tannins & the acidity & will complement the flavours of the wine. If you roast or stew them, you will develop even more nuances which will increase the match. The best root vegetables would be squashes of any kind & parsnips, while Morels, Truffles & Oyster mushrooms are popular choices. Grains, seeds & beans are also fantastic pairing with Nebbiolo due to their creaminess & delicate aromas. Finally, some olives or some capers often add some complexity giving an umami taste to the dish, which will bring some new perspective to the wine.
Suggestion: Morels & truffle risotto on sweet potato pasta with a parsnip & butternut squash arancini. Serve with a balsamic reduction, some Italian green olives & capers.
Meats
The powerful character of the Nebbiolo grape pairs wonderfully with meats, especially rich & fatty red meats since the tannins of the wine melts when in contact with the blood & the fat. Obviously, they are made for the big & bold Nebbiolos like Barolo or Barbaresco & will suit less the finer & more delicate bottles, risking overwhelming it. Slow roasted or braised cooking make wonders when served with a Nebbiolo & the best cuts are often tenderloins, ribs & shanks. Other than the classic beef or veal, the options are Lamb, duck, pork, turkey & rabbit. Adding some herbs to the meal will definitely contribute to the overall pairing. Suggestion: Sage, tarragon & fennel osso bucco with red wine reduction sauce & maple-glazed roasted red peppers.
Cheese
The strong tannins in Nebbiolo-based wines are a risky match for most of the cheeses, since lactic acid will accentuate those. Choosing some that are fat & creamy increase your chances for a good pairing because the lipids will likely lessen the astringency, thus balancing the tannins. Knowing this, there are still some classic offerings such as with Parmiggiano Reggiano. Otherwise, Bleu is a fine option when they aren’t too funky, helping to preserve the delicate aromas of the wine. Suggestions: Brie, Feta, Goat, Winnimere, Taleggio, Triple Cream, Pecorino, Parmiggiano Reggiano.
Dessert
Even if wine is rarely consumed with dessert with the exception of fortified or dessert wines, some pairings can be a wonderful discovery. Nebbiolo tends to go nicely with fruit-based fresh dessert such as gelato or frozen berry yogurt. Suggestions: Greek yogurt with strawberry jam & a scoop of cherry gelato.
Seasons/Occasion
Nebbiolo is perfect to celebrate an occasion or as a meditation wine. They’re great all year round, maybe with the exception of the hot summer months. I love them during fall & winter since they pair well with rich, fatty & savoury meals, i.e. comfort food.
Suggestions: Fall, Winter; By the fireplace, at family gatherings, to celebrate, on rainy days.
Exploration for the Curious Mind
This section’s purpose is for the ones that demand more since they fell in love with Nebbiolo, the ones that adore Nebbiolo & would like to discover something completely new or the ones that wonder if they will like Nebbiolo based on what they already enjoy.
Beers
As surprising as may sound for many, there are some beers that are sour. These are the styles that pair the most nicely with high acidity wines like Nebbiolo. A perfect example is Lambic from Belgium which often offers fruitiness & rusticity, but always delivers a sharp acidity with some fine tannins. Not so much a style per say any Stout or Porter brewed with red berries will mostly be a hit, especially if aged in ex-wine barrels. Some examples of Belgian Dubbel may also work given their spicy yeast which often delivers notes of fruits as well as some earthiness.
Spirits
My first recommendation for wine lovers who wish to get into the spirit world is to start with grape brandies. Since these are distilled from wine, there will definitely be some striking resemblance. They also bring some fresh acidity & some younger expressions may have some velvety tannins. Of course, Cognac & Armagnac are some fine choices, but don’t be afraid to venture into more obscure types of brandies or even Grappas & eaux-de-vie de raisin.
Wines
The first wine to try for Nebbiolo fans is Aglianico, an Italian grape which is cultivated a lot in the South. It’s even nicknamed the “Barolo of the South” in quality regions such as Aglianico del Taburno & Aglianico del Vulture. Otherwise, fine Brunello di Montalcino might give the tannins you’re looking for with a slightly spicier, roasted & dark fruit profile. Cool-climate Pinot Noir like in Burgundy, Alsace or Oregon are all perfect alternatives to Nebbiolo.
The Reference
Robinson, Jancis; Harding, Julia; Vouillamoz, José. Wine Grapes: A complete guide to 1,368 vine varieties, including their origins and flavours.
Anderson, Kym; Aryal, Nanda R. Which Winegrape Varieties are Grown Where? A Global Empirical Picture.
Photo by Nacho Domínguez Argenta
Comments