I first encountered Alvarinho when I started to unravel the mysteries of Vinho Verde. The bottle was Nostalgia 2014 by Lua Cheia. This bottle belongs to the category that changed my perspective on wine. It is frequently mentioned that Alvarinho shows the most potential & elevates the quality in Vinho Verde blends.
“Somewhere between a Sauvignon Blanc, a Riesling & Verdejo. a Zesty acidity is followed by a complex amalgam of minerals, Citrus & blossoms.”
Upon learning on the grape I discovered it was much more famous up north in Spain, where it’s known as Albariño. The acidity, the salinity & minerality along with the slightly tropical & citrusy aromas constitute the signature profile of this remarkable grape. Other common synonyms registered by the Vitis International Variety Catalogue are Alvarin Blanco, Azal Blanco, Galego, Galeguinho & Cainho Branco. These are mostly used by local farmers.
History
The etymology suggests that the name comes from albo (Spain) or alvo (Portugal), both find their origins in albus, meaning white in Latin. There are two theories behind the birth of the grape. The first one is based on written works that mention Cluny Monks from Burgundy arriving to Spain with Alvarinho. The other is much more plausible & simply suggests that the varietal is indigenous to Galicia. Some say that Alvarinho is genetically related to Riesling or to Petit Manseng, but none have been proven by DNA tests. The most notable regions where it is grown are Vinho Verde in Portugal & Rias Baixas in Spain. The grape has more or less recently shown some potential as a single varietal & the producers who have started exploiting it are now making truly fantastic wines. Pretty much everyone is on board saying that this new point of view on Alvarihno is for the better.
Regions
Most of Alvarinho can be found in Spain in the region of Rias Baixas while the remainder is in Portugal, most notably in the north where Vinho Verde is made. Due to loads of cheap stuff from Northern Portugal, Rias Baixas is often seen as having wines of higher quality. However, one would be foolish to stop at this argument because incredible Vinho Verde is also elaborated, you just have to do your homework. In valued producers, the wines are exceptional whether they come from Portugal or Spain. When equally matched Alvarinho tends to have a more floral character while Albariño often showcases ripe fruits such as peaches & apples. It can rarely be found outside of those countries. Other winemakers around the world have tried to make something out of the grape and have been rather successful. These are located in the United States or in Central America where the weather is hot, like Chile, Argentina, Brazil & Uruguay. The central coast of California is even in the midst of an Alvarinho revolution. More producers are now seeing the huge potential behind the grape’s personality. Cooler climate regions have also experimented with it such as New Zealand, Washington & Oregon. In these regions, the acidity is firm while the flavours are a bit softer with some zesty citrus as well as hints of peaches. On a different note, be careful when choosing Alvarinho from Australia since a mix-up has been made between 1955–1984 in Spain between Savagnin Blanc & Albarino. Some plantings of Savagnin were unknowingly sent to Australia, thinking it was Albarino while it was in fact Savagnin Blanc.
Growing
The best conditions for growing Alvarinho are found in maritime regions. As a bonus, these often offer a marvellous minerality to the grapes. Even though its origins lie somewhere in the north of Spain where it’s rainy, Alvarinho prospers quite well in more arid climate.
Various techniques are employed to cultivate Alvarinho from bush growing to pergolas to wire training. Bush growing is the simplest of all. It’s the way vines thrive naturally, in the wild plains of Spain. It usually provides lower yields with concentrated flavours. Pergolas have been a common figure in Vinho Verde’s growing region for a decade. It helps to protect the grape from too much moisture, which could increase the likelihood of mold development. On the other hand, it encourages high yields with often diluted flavours, which favours industrial wine-making. In Portugal, they call it Vinha de Enforcado. In order to leave the image of the sweet, fizzy & light Vinho Verde, measures were taken to enhance the complexity of varietals. Some of those measures was to train the vines on wire as a way to have more control over the yields. This system isn’t restrained to Portugal, in fact, most of the New World has adopted it & more Old World countries are moving towards this technique. In Monçao e Melgaço as well as in Galicia, where the monovarietal Alvarinho has shown fantastic potential, the majority of the quality-minded producers have switched to linear vineyards with wires.
Climate, Vintages & Wine-Making
The ideal climate for Alvarinho has the following conditions: a refreshing maritime wind & cool temperatures. The fact that the grape has a thick skin helps to prevent dilution. When it is grown in warmer regions the wine will showcase notes of ripe stone & tropical fruits such as peaches, nectarines, melons & mangoes while providing less acidity & a richer palate from more residual sugars & ethanol. The cooler climate will allow for citrusy aromas, a sharper acidity & a thinner body. The most crucial aspect to grow high quality Alvarinho grapes is to try and maintain a low yield on order to favour concentration. This improves the structure & the complexity of the wines.
There are two trains of thoughts in regards to aging Alvarinho. Some tend to follow the New World techniques by letting the wine in new oak barrels for many months, which leads to bold flavours. This method appeals to some consumers although it contributes to a rapid decrease in the grape’s unique profile. The other way of doing things involve neutral casks or metal vats & letting the wine rest for a certain amount of time on its lees. It allows the wine to develop complex flavours, a lush texture & a deeper colour. On a different note, even if dry whites are rarely cellared for multiple years, Alvarinho can be part of the exceptions due to its famously high acidity.
While it is mainly made into single varietal wines in Rias Baixas, Alvarinho is more often used in blends in the region of Vinho Verde. A blend’s profile will differ drastically depending on the grapes it contains. The most common are Loureiro, Arinto, Avesso & Trajadura each lending some of their personality to the wine. Loureiro offers some floral & fruity notes with a medium acidity, while Arinto is like Alvarinho’s little brother with a similar profile. Avesso is an aromatic varietal with a rich texture & Trajadura is often used to tone down the acidity as well as to boost the alcoholic strength.
Clonal varieties of Alvarinho have only recently been the subject of some studies. As of now, the most common clone is the mass selection one which presents the renown aromas with a high acidity & a rich texture. New clones are somewhat similar to the mass selection variety although they’re still quite young so a few more years ought to give more insight into these.
While Alvarinho thrives in wet climate, it’s also the reason why there is very little organic or biodynamic examples. Indeed, Alvarinho is subject to loads of diseases, so humidity & heat are quite often a bad combination for a healthy vineyard.
Wine Profile
Colour
Pale yellow with green nuances, although it can gain a deeper hue when aged on its lees.
Nose
Alvarinho is quite fragrant with notes of citrus such as lemon, lime & grapefruit or even mild exotic fruits like melons & papaya. It also has aromas of orchard fruits such as pears, peaches, nectarines & the occasional Granny Smith. It’s quite common to detect floral notes similar to orange & apple blossoms as well as white flowers. However, what stands out the most is the minerality found in the grapes that grew closer to the sea. Most of these aromas come from flavour compounds called terpenes & thiols. These are molecules mostly produced by fruits & flowers. Each of them confer some unique odours, which as a whole create the perfumes of nature.
Taste
Often light bodied, dry to slightly off-dry, no tannins, powerful acidity, medium to light alcohol.
Aging/Cellaring
Alvarinho is often better in its youth when all the delicate fruity flavours fill the glass. However, it can easily be cellared for up to 5 years, which is unusual for this type of light, white wine. It is a bit uncommon to find some oak-aged Alvarinho, although given the high acidity, most of it will go through malolactic fermentation.
Serving
Temperature
Alvarinho is best served at a very cold temperature, around 38-45F (3-7C). This is common with refreshing & crisp white wines like Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio or dry Riesling. This means that it can be appreciated right out of the refrigerator. As it warms up in the bottle & in the glass, it will develop its full spectrum of flavours. Just keep in mind that cold temperature enhances acidity, while hot temperature increases the range of aromas as well as the ethanol presence. The more complex & full-bodied version would benefit from a warmer service, something along 50F (13C).
Breathing/Decanting
Alvarinho generally doesn’t need any sort of breathing or decanting before being served.
Glassware
The perfect glassware for Alvarinho is one made for light, white wines. These are different than those used for richer, full-bodied whites like Chardonnay or Viognier with their slightly larger bowl & wider rim. Smaller wine glasses help to preserve the acidity as well as the delicate aromas such as minerals or flowers.
Popular/Common Examples
Portugal: Parcella Única Escolha - Anselmo Mendes; Alvarinho Vinho Verde - Palacio da Brejoeira; Alvarinho - Soalheiro; Toucas Alvarinho Vinho Verde - Touquinheiras; Alvarinho Deu La Deu - Adega de Monçao; Nostalgia - Lua Cheia
Spain: Rías Baixas Albariño - Mar de Fades; Terras Gauda O Rosa - Terras Gauda; Nora de Neve - Viña Nora; Albariño de Fefiñanes - Fefiñanes
New Zealand: Albariño - Left Field
United States of America: Andrus Island Vineyard Albariño - Field Theory
Pairings
Vegetables, Fruits & others
Alvarinho, with its fresh aromas & poignant acidity, pairs really well with equally vibrant food. Most citrus tend to resonate with the wine as well as salsa, mustard & pesto sauces. Sharp & pungent flavours of leek, garlic & onions can also be a nice addition. However with oily, creamy or mushy ingredients such as avocados, olives, rice & mushroom, there will be a contrast where the acidity will cut through the rich texture, bringing a certain balance. Mushroom, beetroot & cauliflower often lends some interesting earthy flavours which will create a new dimension with the wine, highlighting different aspects of its flavour profile. Suggestion: Rice salad of radishes, green olives, almonds & roasted leeks with a whipped avocado & beetroot sauce with a side of deep-fried mushrooms with a garlic, mustard & maple dip.
Meats
Called the “Vino del Mar” by the Spanish locals it would be crazy to omit seafood when thinking about Alvarinho. It pairs greatly with most lightly seasoned crustaceans & mollusks like shrimps, lobster, scallops, crab & oysters. Fish is also an essential to consider with the wine, especially in the form of sushi or sashimi. It can be slightly seared but the delicate nuanced flavours of some fish will be replaced by more toasted notes. A regional classic would a paella or pretty much any recipe of seafood pasta. If you’re not into fruits of the ocean, try some chicken or tofu instead. Just keep in mind to go with some citrusy sauces, use some aromatic Mediterranean herbs & play it simple to prevent overpowering the wine. Suggestion: Sushi roll with wild-caught Tilapia, basil & lime emulsion, candied apricots & Jalapeño served with an apple & shrimp tartare.
Cheese
The high acidity of Alvarinho tends to go well with creamy cheese as it cuts right through the fat allowing for more subtle notes to shine. The wine’s aroma profile is also a great option with soft or fresh cheese. The saltiness of some can create an exquisite resonance pairing with the minerality of Alvarinho. Even if the previously mentioned types are some of my favourite to have with Alvarinho, pretty much any cheese will make a flavourful combination. Common choices include Goat, Ricotta, Provolone, Feta, Brie, Swiss & Gruyère.
Dessert
Even if it’s a quite unusual wine to pair with dessert, it’s not an impossible task. Alvarinho tends to do great with fruits & nuts, in order to dive into the flavours of the wine, orchard fruits as well as citrus are delicious options. Toasted nuts add another dimension to the grape, while a creamy texture may be balanced by its acidity. Suggestion: Lemon tart with hazelnut crust & a layer of flambéed cranberries & apple syrup.
Seasons/Occasions
As with many white wines, if there is sun & warmth, it’s the right time to drink Alvarinho. It’s the perfect companion by the pool, for light snacks or a seafood party with a huge paella. More complex single vineyard Alvarinho tends to stand marvellously on their own, as meditative wines.
Exploration for the Curious Mind
This section is meant for people who love Alvarinho & would appreciate discovering something else. It also serves a purpose for those who might give it a try based on those recommendations.
Beers
There’s a lot of beer that can easily be the gateway to some type of wines. In the case of Alvarinho, it’s high acidity & aromatic profile are similar in some fashion to some refreshing lagers such as a Czech Pilsner which is the companion of choice for scorching heat with their crisp mouthfeel & delicate flavours. On the same train of thoughts, a floral India Pale Lager might even be better given that a little bitterness doesn’t bother you too much. Wheat ales such as Hefeweizen, Berliner Weisse or Belgian Wit can often share some of the fruity aromas while lending a fragrant spiciness & a faint acidity from the wheat. Finally, if a sour ale aged in ex-Riesling barrels calls out to you, then you should definitely dive into a glass of Alvarinho.
Wines
Other wines that possess similar traits with Alvarinho are Torrontés, Gewürztraminer, Garganega, Pinot Grigio, Vernaccia, Loureiro or even Riesling depending on the producer & the region where they are grown. All of these can be quite aromatic or really refreshing with a noticeable crisp acidity. They often have the same delicate notes of white fruits, flowers & minerality. Of course, each has its own character & some might be quite different in some aspects, but if you like more than 2 of the varietals mentioned above, you definitely should try Alvarinho.
Spirits
In terms of spirits, the closest you can be to Alvarinho, is by sipping a grape or marc eau-de-vie such as grappa, unaged pisco, brandy & others. However, if you happen to love gin or vodka, then you might want to try some Alvarinho.
The References
More information @vivc.de
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