When I first got into Gin, I wasn’t a really big fan of the trendy Gin & Tonic. I preferred them neat in a Glencairn or occasionally in a Rickey or Tom Collins. Today is a whole different story since G&T are something I enjoy regularly. The Negroni is what made me fall in love with gin-based cocktails. A bitter, herbaceous & complex refreshing drink that made me understand how great cocktails could be. There’s not a lot of debate around the Negroni since the rules are quite straightforward. Don’t shake it. Don’t change the ratio. Don’t use lemon peels. Don’t use Dry Vermouth. There it is, pretty simple. The only complicated aspect is in the ingredients themselves since there is a broad range of flavours you can get only by swapping one of its components.
Often, when making myself one, I will choose London Dry Gins that are heavier on juniper. They provide a more herbaceous profile to the cocktail, complementing the spices commonly found in vermouth. I also mostly use Campari, since I feel like this is the one meant for the drink. Finally, I have a weakness for Dolin Vermouth Rouge, although, when it comes to vermouth it’s usually only a matter of preference.
Cocktail Portrait
Category: The Classics/Prohibition Era
Difficulty: Easy
ABV: 25-30%
3-word Description: Spirit-forward, Bitter & Complex.
The History
Like most cocktails, the real origin is unknown & the history is mainly based on rumours. For the Negroni, it is said that it was probably invented in 1919 in Florence, Italy, at Cafè Casoni. Count Camillo Negroni supposedly asked for a stronger version of the Americano, by substituting soda water by gin. The bartender, Fosco Scarselli then proceeded to the request & added an orange garnish instead of lemon. The famous cocktail was born. Other stories all revolve around the Negroni family, but with different generations, so the drink might also have been invented in 1857 or in 1914. Probably not as obscure as many of the classics, yet still not very reliable.
The Recipes
Basic Tools:
Short Tumbler glass
Stirring spoon
Large ice cube
Peeler
Mixing glass
My everyday recipe:
1 oz Tanqueray
1 oz Campari
1 oz Dolin Rouge
An orange peel, squeezed over the cocktail then dropped in.
The IBA recipe:
1 oz Gin
1 oz Campari
1 oz Vermouth Rosso
Orange peel for garnish
A well-known recipe
While some people may change the ratios of the drink, it’s rarely served other than in equal parts. The balance has been proven. What matters, however, is the ingredients, with so many amari, vermouth & gins, the possibilities are endless. A popular combo is to go for a London Dry Gin from England like Bombay Sapphire or Tanqueray, then Campari & finally Martini Rosso Vermouth.
Its father, the Americano is a pretty solid variant if you want something lighter & more refreshing. Its grandfather, the Milano-Torino, is an even easier version omitting everything except for the amaro & the vermouth. A sweeter option would be a Negroni Sbagliato which substitutes the gin for Spumante like Prosecco, so it’s an in-between in terms of strength & you get some bubbles. A White Negroni is made by using a white wine aperitif instead of vermouth rosso, while Suze replaces Campari. By varying the main spirit you can obtain a Boulevardier where gin is swapped for bourbon. Rum, mezcal & whiskey all make some decent riff on the Negroni.
The Ingredients
Gin
You can pretty much use any gin you like in your Negroni as long as you try to match its flavours with the ones from the other ingredients. For instance, a citrusy gin would go better with an amaro that has citrus, while a more coniferous gin would pair well with a vermouth that is heavy on botanicals. There’s no universal answer here, so the best way to go is to make some with different ingredients until a perfect match is found. The more traditional Negroni cocktails are made using London Dry Gin which have more intense juniper flavours. They tend to complement the vermouth & the amaro since both often have a lot of herbs in their recipe. I love making purely Italian versions by choosing an Italian gin. By experience, I found out that the fruitier ones didn’t fit well in this classic cocktail, although I still suggest picking up your favourite bottle & experiment, you’ll eventually come across a perfect match.
Amaro
I’ve written amaro since it’s always pleasant to experiment with various ingredients. However, the only way to make a real Negroni is with Campari. If you’re using something else then you’re not making a Negroni. Plain & simple. Amari differ a lot from one brand to the other, so choosing one might seem like a daunting task. Exploring as much as possible is the best way to discover what you like & what you don’t, but here are some common examples, all compared to Campari. Apérol makes a sweeter & lighter version, while Averna brings deeper botanicals as well as flavours such as licorice & chocolate. Cynar is much more herbal & can complement some vermouth pretty well. Fernet-Branca has a fresher spectrum with mint & eucalyptus notes. This is just a start but there are plenty of wonderful amari that would make amazing variation of the Negroni.
Vermouth Rosso
Vermouth can be briefly described as a spiced wine. Since it’s made with an amalgam of botanicals, fruits & spices it can vary wildly in its taste profile. The best known is probably Martini with its intense herbal character. A lot of people swear by it, although it would be a shame to stop there. There are plenty of other vermouth to try that will each lend their own flavour & aroma to the cocktail. An important step when making a Negroni is to use the sweet version, which is often labelled as Rosso. Most of them will have a mild bitterness that plays well with gin & Campari. Carpano, Dolin, Noilly, Cinzano, Cocchi & Drapo are all famous examples that have unique recipes. I suggest picking up a gin that you like in the first place, then have fun with various vermouth in order to discover which ones suits it best. The other way around can be a good idea if you particularly love a specific bottle & want to see what kind of gin is a nice match. However, doing so seems to be a harder task since there are more gins available than vermouth, at least for the moment.
The Mixing
Just like many stirred cocktails, proper technique is what differentiates a horrible drink from a marvellous one. Pouring three ingredients in a glass is relatively easy, but to be able to refresh the liquid with just the perfect dilution is an art which requires a lot of experience. First of all, pour the gin, vermouth rosso & Campari in a mixing glass starting with the cheapest ingredient. Add a large ice cube & stir until the sides of the glass begin to frost. While doing so try to lift the ice from time to time to keep an eye on the dilution. You’ll notice that as you stir, the ice melts & the volume of the liquid increases. The dilution will eventually stop when the mixture has reached a temperature below water’s freezing point, preventing the ice from melting further. When sufficiently stirred, strain the cocktail in a tumbler filled with another large new ice cube. Peel an orange without excess pith, squeeze it over the drink to release oils in it, rub it against the lip of the glass & dump it in. Now take a sip & enjoy this bitter Italian beast.
The Reference
Photography from Adam Jaime
More information @nytimes.com
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