I was introduced to Dandy Gin at a tasting & I was astonished by how different it was from most gins. The very particulate base spirit was a first one for me & it was clear that it had a huge influence on the final product. This bottle was given to me by someone who wanted me to analyze it more intensely & this is the review that followed.
“It has received a lot of mixed reviews, some hating it & some loving it.”
Dandy Gin
Distilled by: Domaine Lafrance
Type: Modern Gin
Region: Saint-Joseph-du-Lac, Québec, Canada
Age: N/A
ABV: 42.3% (84.6 proof)
Botanicals: Apple Blossoms (Quebec); Grape, pear & apple distillate from Domaine Lafrance’s orchard.
Appearance: 8.5/10
The gin comes in a clear bottle with a nice bright yellow label. There’s plenty of information spread on it such as the base spirit, the aromatic ingredients, the ABV & some brief history as well as the inspiration for Dandy Gin. The bottle is tightly closed with a cork preventing any oxidation or alcohol evaporation. A box or a darker shade of glass would help to decrease risks of damage caused by UV rays. Although I was expecting a slight colouring due to the fact that the distillate is made with grapes, pears & apple eaux-de-vie, the liquid is very clear. On the sides of the glass multiple small legs form on a very thin crest & then slowly make their way back.
Nose: 10/15
The nose hits with some strong overripe orchard fruits. It’s quite similar to apple or grape must with a delicate pear note as well as green grapes. Fragrant apple blossoms shine through the fruity aromas which provides a certain freshness to the gin. The backbone has a faint cereal profile resembling breadcrumbs & rye grains. There is also a subtle spiciness bringing white pepper along with soft nutmeg. There was something that I couldn’t quite put my finger on, a vague impression of celery although not quite as sharp. I’ve never quite smelled anything like this gin. It definitely has its own distinct aroma profile & I can understand that it doesn’t suit everybody.
Mouth: 11/15
The mouthfeel is very mellow & the eaux-de-vie provide a slightly sweet flavour. The ethanol is mild, tingling the tip of the tongue, while the texture is creamy & unctuous, making it an easily approachable gin. I was told subsequently that Domaine Lafrance uses a Stupfler still, a unique alembic producing a soft & mellow liquid. Fine tannins can be felt on the roof of the mouth, adding a bit of structure. The flavours are much more floral with the apple blossoms taking up more space. There is also a sweet white flower resembling Lilies. The fruits are brighter with fresh pears & grape juice. The backbone is identical with the grainy & vegetal notes. Something that wasn’t perceived on the nose is a dusty, mineral character that was slightly unpleasant.
Finish: 7.5/10
The finish is long with fruity notes of pears & apples turning into a powdery flavour reminiscent of cotton candy & Runts or SweeTarts. The sweetness that hit the palate upfront slowly disappears to leave a mild bitterness.
Overall: 74/100
Dandy was elaborated solely in Quebec & is part of the group that pioneered the new craft gin craze. It has received a lot of mixed reviews, some hating it & some loving it. I won’t necessarily be of any help, since this not a bottle for which I would save a spot in my bar, although I would be happy to get it as a gift, so I’m in a grey area. It has its own use in some cocktail bringing a fruity twist. However, I don’t really enjoy sipping it neat or in spirit-forward drinks.
3-word Description:
Floral, Fruity & Mellow.
The Reference:
More information @lesvergerslafrance.com
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